Discovering the lands of Far West Texas can feel a bit like the Wild West, where the land roams free and an endless horizon reinvigorates your love for adventure. The region’s immense scale produces panoramic views that seem to extend to the ends of the earth, broken only by sculptural rock formations, winding canyons, and the occasional horseshoe bend of a rambling river. During my recent road trip through the western lands of the Lone Star state, I found it to be the place to escape the flurry of people and re-discover the open road again.
If you’re ready for a journey that stretches your perspective as much as your odometer, buckle up for the ultimate western odyssey across Texas’ desert plains, mountains, and canyons with this road trip guide through Far West Texas.
From national parks to artist enclaves to hypnotically empty back roads, a road trip through Far West Texas is a one-of-a-kind journey that will open your mind, stretch your perspectives, and leave you pondering the beauty of vast, desolate spaces. So take your time traversing this sparsely populated land—there’s no need to hurry when you’ve got an infinite horizon ahead.
Where is Far West Texas?
Far West Texas is the unofficial name given to the state’s six most western counties and its two national parks. This portion of West Texas lies west of the Pecos River, often referred to as “Trans-Pecos.” Often referred to as the “high desert,” the area lies within the Chihuahuan Desert bordering Mexico along its southern edge. In addition to its desert landscape, Far West Texas is also known for its mountains, where it gets its other name, “Texas Mountain Trail Region,” and is home to the tallest peak in the state. The contrasting landscape is vast, and desolate at times, but surprises you in every which way with its unexpected beauty, restoring solitude, and inviting expansiveness. It’s a journey worth taking.
Getting to Far West Texas
Since I live in Denver, Colorado, I began my journey to Far West Texas by flying into El Paso, with a direct flight from Denver (at Denver International Airport) and renting a car. My ultimate destination on this road trip was Big Bend National Park. As one of the nation’s most remote national parks, Big Bend is not easy to get to. While the Midland/Odessa Airport (MAF) is the closest airport with a three-hour driving distance to the park, your best bet is to fly into El Paso. It is a much bigger airport and offers more direct flights from other locales, plus the drive is only 4.5 hours to the park.
Visit El Paso
You can’t get more far West Texas than El Paso — the westernmost point in Texas. Sharing a border with Mexico, El Paso often makes headlines regarding immigration and “the wall” (very much exaggerated in my opinion), but this vibrant town deserves much more attention for its luxury hotels, great food, and historical attractions. Kick off your epic road trip through Far West Texas by spending a night in El Paso and experiencing this welcoming city beyond the bylines. From taking in the unique cultural fusion and lively downtown scene to visiting world-class museums and parks, there is so much more to discover in this underrated border city.
Things to do in El Paso:
- Explore the streets of downtown with its many restaurants, museums and stunning architecture.
- Visit the nearby historic Mission Trail district. Read more about what to do and see in my blog about the El Paso Mission Trail.
- Spend a day in Juarez, Mexico with a guided tour. I absolutely loved my guided tour through Juarez. It was a great way to safely explore the massive city, see significant cultural sites, sample the best burrito in Mexico (no seriously this place won an award for it), and grab a margarita at the Kentucky Club — where the margarita is said to be invented.
- Drive by the Sugar House (Casa de Azucar) — a private home in the northeast part of town that a man built for his wife who has since passed.
- Hike at the Franklin Mountain State Park.
- Stop in at Rocketbuster for a custom pair of cowboy boots.
A stay at the Hotel Paso Del Norte, Autograph Collection is a must. Located in the heart of downtown, the sophisticated, high-end hotel designed by the famous architect, Henry Trost, combines the best of the West with a touch of modern elegance.
The historic hotel has welcomed past U.S. presidents and famous celebrities over its 100+ years of operation. Located along the historic El Paso Street, the hotel is less than one mile from the Mexico international border. A walk along this historic thoroughfare, where shoppers hunt for bargains in its open-air storefronts, leads you right into Juarez, Mexico, crossing the border bridge over the Rio Grande River.
Marfa, Texas
Leaving El Paso, I journeyed toward the famous small town of Marfa. From I-10 East to US-90, the drive from El Paso to Marfa is roughly two hours and 45 minutes.
Originally a water stop along the railroad in the 19th century, Marfa began gaining fame in the early 1970s when acclaimed minimalist artist Donald Judd moved here so he could display his art with “clean” settings — a.k.a. In the middle of nowhere. Judd founded the Chinati Foundation, transforming abandoned military buildings into massive art installations and sculpture spaces using concrete, metal, and light.
With a population of around 1,700, it now has an outsized reputation as an offbeat arts community and travel destination. As other artists and creatives flocked to the area, today, Marfa is considered a haven for artists, writers, and those seeking creative inspiration from the region’s sparse beauty and solitude. You’ll find large-scale installations and exhibits, chic boutique hotels like the Hotel Saint George, glamping in teepees and yurts at The Hotel Paisano, beautiful adobe homes, and eclectic pop-up shops and restaurants that line the streets.
While I am sure you won’t miss it, be sure to check out the famous Prada Marfa sculpture. Technically located in the small town of Valentine, Prada Marfa is found along US-90, 30 minutes from the actual town of Marfa. You’ll immediately see a swath of people and cars pulled off on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere.
The River Road: Marfa to Big Bend Ranch State Park
From Marfa, I decided to take US-67 south toward what locals describe as “the most beautiful drive in Texas.” The River Road, also known as the Farm to Market Road 170 and not to be confused with the primitive auto trail in Big Bend National Park, follows the Rio Grande River near the U.S./Mexico border. The scenic route connects the town of Presidio to the ghost town of Terlingua.
I took my time driving along this scenic stretch of 60 miles between Presidio and Lajitas — otherwise known as the El Camino Del Rio. Rolling hills, desert scenes, and the open air were all I needed to fall in love with this part of Far West Texas.
My ultimate destination was Big Bend Ranch State Park. As the largest state park in Texas, Big Bend Ranch State Park spans 311,000 acres next to its bigger sister — Big Bend National Park. Its remote backcountry draws in the adventurous to view features like the Colorado Canyon and the state’s second-highest waterfall — Madrid Falls. The park shares the same Chihuahuan Desert ecosystem as the national park, so you can expect much of the same terrain.
There are a few short hikes along HWY 170 for those who don’t have the time to venture further inside the park or don’t have plans to backpack. But I found one of the best ways to explore, with the little time I had, was with a guided horseback riding tour with Lajitas Stables.
I chose the three-hour afternoon ride, where we climbed around 500-900 feet above the stables on rugged and technical trails. Because parts of the trail lie along the edge of cliffs and rocky terrain, I would only suggest this experience if you are comfortable with heights and your riding skills. The views are beautiful and you truly feel like a cowboy riding off into the sunset.
If you plan to stay in Lajitas, the only real option is the fancy Lajitas Golf Resort. The upscale resort features a world-class 18-hole golf course, spa, equestrian center, and more. But if your budget doesn’t allow it, continue your drive to the small ghost town of Terlingua.
The ghost town of Terlingua
For a true taste of the Wild West’s lawless frontier days in far West Texas, stay in Terlingua. Located roughly 20 minutes from Lajitas, Terlingua is a tiny ghost town that was once a booming mining town, now with a current population of just over 100 people.
As the last mercury mine closed in the 1940s, Terlingua became a virtual ghost town for decades before an influx of artists, adventurers and rebels started breathing new life into it in the 1970s. They were drawn to the area’s desolate beauty, dark skies, and the ability to live off the grid away from society.
Today, Terlingua maintains its offbeat, ramshackle vibe as a quirky desert hideaway. Rusting trucks, tin shacks, and crumbling adobe structures leftover from its mining heyday are intermixed with art galleries, outdoor gear shops, funky cantinas, and eclectic accommodations like yurt camping and renovated RVs.
Things to do in Terlingua
Hang out at the “porch” — a BYOB hangout spot in front of the Terlingua Trading Company. The general store is where you’ll find last-minute provision needs and where you’ll check in if you plan to stay at the Big Bend Holiday Hotel.
A few doors down, grab dinner at the Starlight Theatre, a restaurant and saloon where you can dine on Lone Star favorites like Chicken-fried Texas Antelope. But be prepared, the wait for dinner is insanely long, like a 2-hour+ wait! I was hungry that night, so I opted for dinner down the road at Taqueria el Milagro for some tacos and an outdoor patio. FYI… it is BYOB.
Before I hit the road toward Big Bend NP, I stopped for breakfast at Espresso y Poco Mas, and had one of the best breakfast burritos. The counter-service breakfast spot also connects to a guesthouse and casita for overnight stays.
Beyond food and coffee, Terlingua is also home to several art galleries and shops, plus this is where you’ll find many of the outdoor outfitters for river trips and mountain biking tours of Big Bend National Park.
Where to stay in Terlingua
You won’t find any chain hotels in this eclectic town, which puts Terlingua high on my favorite small town stops list. I stayed at the Big Bend Holiday Hotel — a grouping of old buildings refurbished into private casitas, hotel rooms, mansion suites and more. My accommodations for the night were in the Green Room inside the Perry Mansion. Overlooking the Chisos Mountains, the Perry Mansion rests atop the hill that overlooks Terlingua. I loved the views from the spacious veranda where I enjoyed my morning coffee, plus the room’s large elegant bathroom and unique decor.
At Basecamp Terlingua you’ll find casitas, tipis, tents, and bubble-domed yurts, plus an on-site restaurant and Terlingua jeep rentals. A new tiny home rentals near Big Bend feature A-frame tiny homes and Camp Elena is another great choice for glamping and views of the Chisos Mountains.
Big Bend National Park
How else do I describe Big Bend National Park? A place so vast, that half of its beauty is its grandeur. Spanning just over 800,000 acres, there is much to explore, but don’t expect to speed through its rugged terrain, with some areas of the park taking hours of travel time. Reaching the U.S./Mexico border, where the Rio Grande divides the two countries, it’s where the world doesn’t feel divided. A border you can cross without fear or persecution.
Within the park’s boundaries, it preserves the largest protected area of the Chihuahuan Desert in the United States, containing towering rock formations, deep canyons carved by the Rio Grande, forested mountains, waterfalls, natural hot springs, and vast swaths of desert wilderness.
Some of the park’s most iconic features include the sheer-walled Santa Elena Canyon, the dramatic rock spires known as the Chisos Mountains, and the famed South Rim overlooking the desert expanse. With over 150 miles of hiking trails, Big Bend provides ample opportunity for backcountry adventure and solitude.
Getting to Big Bend National Park
Don’t be fooled by Google Maps directions of only a 15-minute drive from Terlingua to Big Bend National Park. Coming from Terlingua, you’ll enter through the westernmost entrance at Maverick Junction. From here you, have about 45 minutes until you reach the Castolon Visitor Center and historic district. This is where I started my adventure.
Hiking in Big Bend
The Maxwell Scenic Drive is a beautiful route that brings you to one of the most iconic features in the park: the dramatic cliff walls of Santa Elena Canyon. Split by the Rio Grande River, the Santa Elena Canyon stands divided but only by geography. A popular hike is the Santa Elena Canyon Trail — a 1.6-mile roundtrip hike that guides you along the Rio Grande River and back into one of the narrowest places in the seven-mile canyon.
My next stop was to hike to the Window in Chisos Basin. So, I backtracked along the Maxwell Scenic Drive, taking in the reverse views of Big Bend. Chisos Basin rests more or less at the center of the park and is near one of the park’s only accommodations — the Chisos Mountain Lodge.
The 5.5-mile (roundtrip) Window Trail in Chisos Basin descends first into the Oak Creek Canyon, something I despise when hiking — I much prefer to ascend first rather than descend. But I didn’t care once I saw the views driving into Chisos Basin. Beautiful canyon walls surrounded the periphery, with low-lying cactus and shrubs, and hardly any trees. The end of the trail reaches a lookout point, called the Window, which peers out over expansive views of Big Bend.
This is only a fraction of what there is to explore inside the park. If you plan to see most of Big Bend, prepare for several days at the park. The only lodging option inside the park is the Chisos Mountain Lodge, otherwise, you’ll need to stay in the nearest town. And of course, there are camping options available throughout the park.
Marathon, Texas
Leaving Big Bend, I followed the road through the Persimmon Gap, at the park’s eastern entrance, to reach the small town of Marathon. After hiking all day in the heat, I was happy to discover this tiny desert oasis in Far West Texas.
Founded in the 1880s as a railroad town, Marathon still maintains its old-west feel with adobe buildings, wide streets, and a location surrounded by rugged mountains and desert-scapes.
Despite its diminutive size, Marathon punches above its weight when it comes to arts, food, and local culture. Visitors can browse the galleries and artistic wares sold by resident artisans, and enjoy the locally-grown fare at the affordable restaurants and in-town market at the French Company Grocer.
The town’s centerpiece is the historic Gage Hotel, which owns some serious real estate with a hotel, the beautifully landscaped 27-acre Gage Gardens, a cafe, a fine dining restaurant, a brewery, and an impressive art collection from the personal collection of hotelier J.P. Bryan. But that’s not what impressed me most while staying here, it was the lush grounds, cooling pool, and flowering flora that felt like a luxurious oasis in the middle of nowhere west Texas.
A morning walk through town revealed another place to stay — Eve’s Garden Bed and Breakfast. An artful masterpiece itself, it’s hard to miss with its brightly colored walls, garden sculptures, and flowers growing in every nook and cranny. I stopped in to check it out and I am glad I did. The owner gave me a tour of the place, showcasing her seemingly endless amounts of artwork, flowering gardens, and guest house. I can’t wait to get back to Marathon just to stay here!
Alpine to Fort Davis
As I made my way back to El Paso, I stopped in Alpine, TX. While I didn’t spend much time in Alpine, I instantly noticed its artistic nature and appeal. Originally home to an artist colony in 1921 – 1950, Alpine has been a hub for local artists for years. In fact, the town highlights 44 murals on a walking map along with numerous art galleries along the main street of Holland Avenue. But where I spent most of my time was along Murphy Avenue. I took some time to browse the art galleries, shop at the newest store Murphy Street Provisions, and grab a drink at Petit Bijou.
Continuing from Alpine, I drove along HWY 118 toward Fort Davis, TX — home to a historic military fort sitting atop the Davis Mountains at 4,892 feet in elevation. Another small town in Far West Texas known for its local art scene, Fort Davis features several art galleries including the Old Spanish Trail Gallery and Museum. But the real piece of art can be seen with a scenic drive that circles the Davis Mountains.
This isolated mountain range soars like a desert fortress out of the vast empty basin of Far West Texas, where a 75-mile driving route snakes around the highest peaks showcasing scenic vistas at Davis Mountains State Park, the McDonald Observatory, and the Davis Mountains Preserve.
Another notable stop in Fort Davis is the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center. I didn’t actually make it there myself as I ran out of time, but it came highly recommended. There are light hiking trails, a cactus museum, and botanical gardens.
From here, I continued along HWY 118, heading north toward I-10 West. My last stop in Far West Texas was Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
Stretching across the border into New Mexico, the Guadalupe Mountains are a striking raised remnant of an ancient limestone reef. Carved over millions of years by glaciers and erosion, the Guadalupe range contains soaring cliffs, hidden canyons, and Texas’ highest peak—the 8,749-foot Guadalupe Peak. It’s a hiker’s paradise with trails like the incredible El Capitán loop that dips below towering orange walls and into a rugged wilderness setting.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park is small comparatively speaking with its sister, Big Bend, with 80 miles of trails, but big views from the state’s highest point — the Guadalupe Peak.
What I loved most about hiking through the Guadalupe Mountains, was the change of scenery from desert, low-lying cacti to pinyon pines and bigtooth maple trees. A slow, approachable hike through McKittrick Canyon revealed vibrant fall colors (I was there in early November), a beautiful mountain stream, and the historic Pratt Cabin. The 6.8-mile hike was a perfect day hike on my way back to El Paso.
Here is where I ended my trip through Far West Texas. I hope you get a chance to explore these open roads and vast landscapes for yourself. Happy trails!
*all images were taken by me and are subject to copyright.
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