There were no other sounds at night than the quiet breeze moving through the valley during my stay at Vermejo: A Ted Turner Reserve. Vermejo is a place where time slows, and the world seems to stand still for a moment. But even in the quiet, you could feel the majestic call of the outdoors. I could hear the silence of everything working in harmony, just as Mother Nature designed.
As a writer, I try to stay away from cliche sayings such as “hidden gems,” but that’s exactly what Vermejo felt like to me—a magical place, that seems hidden from the rest of the world.
Below, you’ll discover why Vermejo quickly became one of my favorite small-town stops, where big adventures await.
Located in the small town of Raton, in northern New Mexico, straddling the New Mexico/Colorado border, Vermejo butts up against the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the Valle Vidal unit of the Carson National Forest—an area known for its beautiful mountain vistas, forests, and alpine meadows. Teeming with a rich history, diverse wildlife, and beautiful landscapes, it’s a place in the American West where you still feel wild and free.
Vermejo is one of 14 ranches in the United States that Ted Turner—the visionary behind CNN and an avid philanthropist—owns. Upon acquiring the Vermejo estate in 1996, Turner’s goal was to transform what was essentially an informal hunting retreat and men’s social club into its current incarnation: a luxurious, eco-conscious resort that caters to both couples and families.
The secluded New Mexico retreat stands out as the crown jewel in Ted Turner’s collection, boasting an expansive 550,000 acres nestled in the southern Rocky Mountains. This vast expanse surpasses the size of many national parks, offering visitors an unparalleled sense of freedom and openness to explore the property’s four distinct biomes, fishing waters, mountain trails, and wildlife views of roaming bison, hundreds of wild horses, herds of regal elk, pronghorns, wild turkeys and so much more.
Vermejo’s philosophy – #saveeverything
To understand how special this Ted Turner ranch is, one must understand its mission and core values. The mission is simple: to connect people to nature.
Soon after the Vermejo property was purchased, Ted Turner formed the Turner Endangered Species Fund with the mission to “conserve and restore imperiled species, with an emphasis on promoting wild, working landscapes.”
Operating as a non-profit, Vermejo doesn’t focus on the bottom line but rather on how to balance the relationship between conservation and commerce. “If something has a negative impact we reconsider how to do it differently,” says Harry Tyner, Reserve Ambassador at Vermejo.
This Ted Turner ranch is one of the more impressive examples of the conservation efforts carried out under this inspiring mission. Because of the continued efforts led by Vermejo’s scientists and land managers, the ranch remains a special place where the ecosystem is balanced and respected.
As you explore, the land echoes with conservation success stories including restoration of the native Rio Grande cutthroat trout to the southern Rocky Mountains. You’ll learn about this story and even more from the knowledgeable guides who passionately share how proud and happy they are to be a part of these success stories working at Vermejo.
Our mission is “connecting people with nature, and perhaps the only thing we love more than Vermejo itself is sharing it with others,” said Tyner.
Staying at Vermejo
Staying at Vermejo, it’s more than just a vacation destination, it’s an experience.
How it works: Your all-inclusive stay includes three meals a day (alcohol not included), two half-day or one full-day of guided activities, and plush accommodations of your choice. Prior to arrival, each guest works with the Reserve Ambassador team to build a custom itinerary to create your perfect vacation.
The lay of the land
Vermejo is essentially divided into two distinct sections; headquarters and the reserve, with the Vermejo River marking the spot where headquarters ends and conservation begins. At the main entrance, the 10,000-acre area of land that encompasses the lodge and many of the accommodations on the property is referred to as Headquarters.
The remaining 550,000+ acres of land, known as the reserve, open to a vast array of wildlife, scenic views, history, and outdoor adventures for all guests to explore. The best part about staying at Vermejo? Due to a contract that limits development, the lack of overdevelopment ensures a peaceful stay without too many people.
At headquarters, guests can choose between high-end accommodations at Casa Grande or the Turner House. During my stay, I enjoyed the luxurious living quarters of a King-size guest room in Casa Grande. What was once Ted Turner’s private quarters, Casa Grande is a 25,000-square-foot stone mansion featuring a grand parlor, billiards room, chef’s kitchen, and conservatory—the epitome of luxury.
For those who require more space for the family or a group of friends, headquarters also features five different cottages. Elevated cottages are available for those who prefer plush surroundings and more basic cabins are available for those on a budget and don’t plan on spending a lot of time in their rooms.
Beyond headquarters, located in the reserve, there is a larger residence available for those who are looking for more of a secluded experience. Nestled in the high country at 10,000 feet in elevation, the Costilla Fishing Lodge boasts views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, plenty of sleeping room, a grand stone fireplace, an expansive porch, and a private chef to cook your meals.
Opening in April 2024 is Vermejo’s newest residence—Bernal Lake Cabin. Because the reserve limits development, this cabin is the first new accommodation on the property since 1964.
The rustic yet luxurious two-suite cabin rests on the shores of Bernal Lake, which guests enjoy private access to when they book the cabin. Outside, the cabin features lake-view windows, private decks, and a boat dock to enjoy the benefits of lake-front access. Inside, it’s decked out with a gas fireplace, heated floors, in-suite soaking tubs, plush furnishings, and so much more for a luxurious stay.
Culinary delights
Dining at Vermejo feels like an experience in itself. Executive Chef Giovanni Lanzante and Vermejo’s culinary staff prepare fresh dishes with high-quality cuts of meat and an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients, including fresh produce from the property’s greenhouse. Plus, a well-rounded drink menu and a wine list made enjoying the sunsets from the veranda picture-perfect.
Even if you aren’t much of a meat-eater, you can’t leave without trying their ranch-raise bison meat. Or try something new, like I did, and sample a savory cut of antelope meat. Seriously, so sweet and tasty.
While enjoying evening dinners and sunsets on the veranda was one of my favorite experiences at Vermejo, I was happy I didn’t miss the cowboy breakfast. Bringing the culinary experience to life, the staff hosts an outdoor breakfast like the cowboys used to wrangle up—cooked over an outdoor fire in a cast iron skillet. They served all the fixins; coffee, greek yogurt, and fresh berries, plus biscuits and gravy, bacon, eggs, and fried potatoes.
Vermejo’s guided experiences
Fill your days with one of Vermejo’s guided experiences. Choose from two half-day or one full-day activities including fishing, horseback riding, hiking, biking, UTV rides to explore the property, conservation and history tours, wildlife safaris, archery, and so much more.
See the Ted Turner Bison Herd
Ted Turner’s bison span across his 14 ranches, including Vermejo, and is comprised of approximately 45,000 bison—the largest private herd in the world. A must-do at Vermejo is the tour to see some of the Ted Turner Bison herd. Vermejo contains roughly 2,100 bison, some of which are part of the Castle Rock herd—one of the most genetically pure bison herds in the world.
This herd has lived at Vermejo since the 1920s, where it is still managed as a conservation herd to preserve its unique genetics. On the tour, you’ll hear the story of how Ted Turner helped bring back the American Bison from the verge of extinction and see the bison roaming free throughout the property.
Beyond the bison, keep an eye out for other wildlife on the tour including elk, deer, pronghorn, turkeys, and so much more!
Fishing for mountain trout
Just picture it, a gentle mountain stream makes its way down a verdant valley filled with colorful wildflowers, marking the base of the staggering mountain peaks that anchor the surrounding horizon. That’s exactly what you can experience fishing at Vermejo.
Even if you aren’t much of an angler, I would still highly recommend signing up for a fishing tour. A world-class fishing destination, Vermejo has welcomed anglers for over a century to cast a line in one of its dozen fishable lakes and over 30 miles of pristine streams.
Despite being a novice angler myself, I chose the guided stream fishing excursion. I’ve done the lake fishing thing and wanted the chance to fly fish in one of the most picture-perfect mountain landscapes. I rode up to the high country with my guide Kevin Cole, where we fished for the native Rio Grande cutthroat trout at the Castillo watershed.
Fishing for the Rio Grande cutthroats is a rare experience because of Vermejo’s efforts to rehabilitate this species. The property’s successful restoration of the Rio Grande cutthroat might be one of Vermejo’s most proud conservation projects to date.
Catskill Kilns and History Tour
One of the more unique tours at Vermejo is the Catskill Kilns and History Tour. See the famous Catskill Kilns that were once used to turn over 3,000 logs a day into charcoal. The large brick cone-shaped kilns still stand today amongst the green fields of the Canadian River Valley as a reminder of the bustling community of homesteaders who settled here over a hundred years ago and why they left.
If you plan it just right, the wildflowers will be beautifully blooming. During my visit in early July, the field was bursting with yellow and purple flowers, which made viewing these historic structures even more special.
Getting to Vermejo
Vermejo is located in northern New Mexico in the small town of Raton. If you’re coming from town, visitors can reach the ranch with a one-hour scenic drive through York Canyon, along HWY 555. From Denver to Vermejo, the drive is just under five hours, and from Albuquerque, the drive is about four hours. The biggest airport nearby is in Albuquerque with smaller regional airport options in Raton and Alamosa, Colorado.
For more about Vermjo, visit their website and follow them on Instagram @vermejoreserve.
*all images and content are produced by me and are subject to copyright.
